Sunday, April 1, 2007

Old Phuket Town

Yesterday I decided to take a walk around Phuket Town (officially called Phuket City now). Better to do this at the weekend when the streets are quieter. It's not a small town, but the urban sprall can be left alone - the average visitor will be more interested in the old center, the market and the various temples. I wandered for a couple of hours and would need another afternoon of meandering to cover everything. Unlike many provincial towns in Thailand, Phuket actually has some character, some history and some interesting old architecture. I do recommend a walkabout. It has been a while since I did this - normally the town is a place to come for business (paying tax or social security or renewing visas and work permits), but I did enjoy yesterdays stroll.

Old House, shiny new gate Not so shiny, but they probably have a Mercedes

Old house now being used for cooking gas distribution

Arches, Phuket Town On On Hotel, Phuket Town

The first place I wanted to see was the Catholic Church. Due to it's history and location, Phuket has a variety of religious influences. Christianity is alive and well, with weekly services at this church and also at a church in Patong. What I did not realise (sometimes you need a walk to take time to stop and smell the roses) is that on the same street as the church (Soi Taling Chan, on the other side of the clock tower from the Metropole Hotel) there is also a mosque (Yameay mosque) and a Chinese Shrine (Hock Guan Kong). It has always struck me that Phuket is a melting pot. I don't want to dwell on religion right now, but many visitors may not realise that the population is around 30% muslim. A man leaving the mosque after prayers stopped to say hello. "We're all the same", he said. I wish everyone felt the same way. I suggest you take a walk down this street. Buddhism, Islam and Christianity all within 200 meters.

Hock Guan Kong Shrine Clock tower and Metropole Hotel

Yameay mosque, Phuket Town

Phuket Catholic Church

A few hundred meters north of Soi Taling Chan you find the old town, the market, the local bus station, several cheap guesthouses and the business centre. The main streets to wander are Phang Nga Road, Thalang Road, Dibuk Road, Ranong Road, all within a few blocks of the market. Up on Dibuk Road is a fair sized temple (Wat Phutta Mongkhon Nimit) which has some beautiful external artwork and a collection of chedis (see below)..

Wat Phutta Mongkhon Nimit Chedis

Monk in Phuket Town

Just along the road from the temple entrance is the north end of Soi Rommani. This narrow street was quite captivating, that is to say I liked it. Old buildings, a view of the temple roof to the north, and I am happy to say (on this hot day) I found a small cafe there called "Natural Farm", where I enjoyed a sandwich and a refreshing lemon soda. The street was very quiet. As I sat resting, maybe 2 vehicles drove up the street in half an hour. One of them, a rather fancy Mercedes, parked in the house opposite the cafe..don't let the old houses fool you - there is old money here. Next door to the cafe was an art/handicraft shop. A couple of doors down was an interesting looking bar called "Glastnost". Phuket town has lots of small, unique bars, cafes and shops hiding up narrow back streets like Soi Rommani.

Soi Rommani
Soi Rommani

Inside the Natural Farm cafe Just what the doctor ordered

That was quite enough wandering for a hot afternoon! I did not get to the market or any of the other chinese shrines (such as Jui Tui and Bang Niaow). If you want to see something of real Thai life, Phuket has it all over. The town/city is a good place to start if you have limited time. The Phuket Gazette just reported that a museum will be created in the old town in a renovated historic building. If you are traveling on a budget there are several guesthouses such as Old Town Hostel, Phuket Backpackers, the On On etc.. If you have clean clothes there are some nice hotels in town too. Getting to the beaches is easy - local buses run from the market (or you could splash out on a taxi). At the very least, I think a day of pottering around the streets is well worthwhile. I'll do it again sometime...

Hotels in Phuket Town
• Some excellent Old Phuket Town Information on the TAT Website

This walk was in 2007, since then I have several newer blog entries about Phuket Town or walking around the town, such as:

Phuket Photo Walk 2010
Glastnost Cafe on Soi Romanee
Old Phuket Street Festival
Shrine of the Serene Light
Exploring Phuket Town

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