Vegetarian Festival - The Food

The Phuket Vegetarian Festival is not just about skewered cheeks, Chinese gods and firecrackers, although that's the fun part (and the first of the street processions is tomorrow morning). The food is also very important. Local people (not all, I might add) follow a strict diet which is vegan rather than just vegetarian - no meat, no eggs, no dairy, and for some reason (if someone can tell me, please do!) no garlic or onions. The diet is to cleanse the body and spirit.

It all started way back in 1825 when a Chinese traveling opera troupe (or circus depending what you read) came to the Kathu area of Phuket to perform. At that time, Kathu was the main town in Phuket as it was the center of the tin mining industry that helped make Phuket quite wealthy. Many Chinese settled here during the tin mining boom years, and thus you have a huge Thai-Chinese population in Phuket, mostly around Kathu and Phuket Town. Anyway, the travelers got sick, and then followed a vegetarian diet and bingo! They all got better!

The festival has a long history and yes, I do like to go on about it, as this is something that makes Phuket special for me. See - Phuket is way more than beaches and tourists. Phuket has a rich history, and at this time of year you can really get a taste of something special. Do pardon the pun.

Later this week I'll be heading out to see some of the processions, and also some of the other rituals at the shrines such as firewalking and bladed ladder climbing. I want to get some video this year, though my camera is but a simple one... Last couple of years I stuck to still photos - see Vegetarian Festival Photos.

So, for now, I am still at work all day, but will start a holiday on Friday, so there will be time to get around the shrines. I started on "the diet" yesterday. The food is pretty darn good actually, and fortunately there's a good place to eat close to work. If you are on the back road in Karon, just opposite the post office on the corner of the little road that goes up to CC Blooms Hotel, you find a great little restaurant that is very popular at festival time (actually its pretty good year round for cheap Thai food).



Lunch today started with a vegetarian noodle soup, packed full of all kinds of things, none of them meaty, all delicious ... it's called Yentafo. The meat version I probably would not eat as it tends to include things like coagulated blood and bits of squid. Call me picky.. Little know secret, but I was vegetarian for quite a few years many years ago, so even today I am a bit picky with meat dishes!



And now a close up... And I think the same tomorrow lunchtime!



Oh, that was the starter... main dish was Phad Gaprao. Looks like meat, tastes just great...



Oh, and just to make those taste buds long to be in Phuket right now, let's zoom in...



Of course I am a hypocrite waxing lyrical about this food. By next week I'll be having eggs, bacon and chips for lunch again! But for now, for a week or so, this food is great! If you are in Phuket during the festival look for the stalls or restaurants with the yellow signs. Try something different!

Salty Shrimp at Panchor, Muar - Johor.

I suggest to make this famous salty shrimp as our lunch before we drive back to Johor Bahru. The Han Thoy Restaurant (N02°10.358' E102°42.761') located in a very small village (beside Muar River) call - Panchor. That is about 30KM from Muar town. It's a old wooden shop, opposite of a indoor basketball hall. (Business hour : 10am-9pm)

We had been here for few times, and this time I decided to share with all of you. The orders for our lunch :-
1) Salty Shrimp (Signature dish)
2) Kang-kung mixed with Cuttlefish.
3) Steam Patin Fish
4) Stewed Vermicelli (side dish)

My favorite!! The Salty Shrimp - Main dish of the day!
It's also our purpose to the Han Thoy Restaurant.

Kang-Kung with Cuttlefish

Steam Patin Fish (Silver Catfish)

Stewed Vermicelli

The shrimps was Marvellous!! Fish was Fresh! Cuttlefish and the vermicelli were so-so.......
The damage for this lunch was MYR62.00 (reasonable prices) for 4 adults & one kid included drink.

I rated : 4/5.


View Larger Map - Map of Han Thoy Restaurant

Related post :-
* Foods of Bukit Gambir, Muar Johor.
* Restaurant Double Lim (Assam Fish), Muar.
* Leng Kee Bak Kut Teh, Muar, Johor

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Leng Kee Bak Kut Teh, Muar, Johor

After we left Malacca, the journey continue to Muar town - another historical town. It's about 30 minutes drive from Malacca town.
I remember 2 of my friends from Singapore (Silverbeauty & Redstorm) told me there's a Bak Kut Teh they never miss on every trips to Kuala Lumpur. They definitely drop by Muar for it! I manage to get the GPS coordinates from them and want to try it too! :)

The navigation machine direct us to Jalan Khalidi, but we can't find any shop or stall after we reached the destination of the coordinates provided. So I decided to drive further to try our luck. Finally it's located about 700 meter away from the GPS coordinates been given!

The signage faded until I can't really read it! (N2°02.382' E102°33.837')

The shop is located actually opposite of a Car Showroom (It might be Toyota, cannot remember well....). We reached there around 3:30pm and it's time they gonna close, luckily we managed to convinced the boss to serve us as the 'last customers for the day!'

Our order :-
1) Claypot Bak Kut Teh.
2) Claypot Vinegar Pork Leg.
3) Assam fish.
4) Marinated salt & sweet vege.




The taste of the Bak Kut Teh was average if compare with the best in JB. The Claypot Vinegar Pork Leg good! Assam fish was above average, but the Double Lim is better!
The above meal cost us MYR27.00 for 2 adults & 1 kid included drink. Cheap?? I was really surprised!!

Overall, I rated : 3.5/5




View Larger Map

Related post :-
* Foods of Bukit Gambir, Muar Johor.
* Restaurant Double Lim (Assam Fish), Muar.
* Salty Shrimp at Panchor, Muar - Johor.

Bak Kut Teh at Johor Bahru :-
* How Yu Bak Kut Teh, Permas Jaya, Johor
* Soon Huat Bak Kut Teh, Tmn Daya, Johor Bahru
* Shi-Hua Bak Kut Teh, Permas Jaya, Johor Bahru*
* Soon Lee Bak Kut Teh, Taman Johor Jaya, Johor Bahru
* Soong Huat Bak Kut Teh, Taman Desa Tebrau - Johor Bahru
* Ah Soon Bak Kut Teh, Johor Bahru*

Bak Kut Teh at Kulai :-
* Sze Hwa Bak Kut Teh, Kulai, Johor*

Bak Kut Teh at Pekan Nanas :-
* Tong Heng Bak Kut Teh at Pekan Nanas, Johor.

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Eating Out: The Lunch Room

I don't think there's any mention of this place anywhere on the web yet... well, it only opened a few weeks ago. The Lunch Room is in the Kathu area of Phuket, close to Kathu Waterfall (coming from Patong you'd go just past the waterfall road - Soi Namtok Kathu - and The Lunch Room is on the right side). This area of Kathu is being built up rapidly - lots of new houses around here, and it's also just a couple of minutes from the Loch Palm Golf Club. We live in Kathu and we know the owner of The Lunch Room pretty well - she used to work with my wife years ago in the dive shop - and her husband was a dive instructor too!



The Lunch Room is open every day except Sunday and does Thai food, all day breakfasts, some excellent baguette sandwiches, great big burgers, salads, spaghetti, coffee, cakes... Yes, it's not on the tourist trail, but if you are exploring in the Kathu area, it's a good option for a late breakfast, lunch or early dinner. In fact not too many other options around there except noodles and food stalls around the local market!



We sometimes just call in for a chat and a cappuccino - much bigger and better value than Starbucks. Patong Beach has about 5 of them now - I say support your local independent coffee shop! And while you're at it - have a real burger at The Lunch Room and give McDonalds a miss! The burgers are big and bold and chunky and I do like to have one now and then washed down with a couple of cold Chang beers. They have some TV's in the restaurant and I sometimes head over on a Saturday evening to watch the English football.

China Town of Malacca

After the Stadhuys Museum, we continue our journey to the China Town of Malacca. This area actually is the Shopping Paradise.

The most convenience way to park your car (if you're driving) is the parking of Memosa Hotel (N2°11.949' E102°15.086'). MYR3.00 per entry. Even you can have a cheaper parking along the road, but it won't be easily for you to get a parking lot within this area.

Memosa Hotel

We visited the Madam King Departmental (N2°11.981' E102°15.088') which is my wife Favorite! I noticed this Popiah stall (N2°11.974' E102°15.084') located outside Madam King always full of peoples queuing.....

I feel the design of this mosque (beside Memosa Hotel) similar to the mosque at Taipei during my visit.....

Below pictures are the street of China Town - Jalan Bunga Raya


You might notice that the TV antennas over here are installed with a long pipe and at least 6-10 meters above the roof, the reason behind is to receive Singapore broadcasting TV channel.


View Larger Map

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The Phuket Vegetarian Festival is Coming!

(Update 8th October) - photos are online:

• Phuket Vegetarian Festival Photos 2008

One of my favourite times of year is nearly here! The Phuket Vegetarian Festival starts on September 28th this year. The date is based on the Chinese lunar calendar and varies year to year (last year the festival started on October 11th) - this year is a bit early and I hope the weather holds, as late September/early October has a habit of being rather grotty.

This is a spectacular, gruesome, fascinating festival. There is so much to see, some interesting food to sample, a real sense of history and tradition that many people do not realise exists in Phuket (hey, it's not all beaches, you know!). Over the last couple of years I have tried to see as much as possible, and this year plan to take a week off work in order to better experience the full range of festival happenings. Last year I was in Phuket Town twice for the famous processions which take place this year every morning from the 1st to 7th of October. This is where you see the pierced faces, the purification by pain. The festival is all about purfication of the body.



If you are in Phuket between September 28th and October 7th, please try to see something of this festival. The processions are in the morning starting 7am. Getting up early will be rewarded by an experience of something extreme.



More Photos:

Phuket Vegetarian Festival Photos 2007
Phuket Vegetarian Festival Photos 2006


Phuket Vegetarian Festival Schedule 2008

Street Processions in Phuket Town - Try to see one!

October 1st Sapam Shrine
October 2nd Samkong Shrine
October 3rd Ban Tha Rue Shrine
October 4th Bang Neow Shrine & Cherng Thalay Shrine
October 5th Jui Tui Shrine
October 6th Kathu Shrine & Yokkekeng Shrine
October 7th Sui Boon Tong Shrine


28th September

ALL SHRINES
17:00 Lantern Pole Raising - the pole is how the gods descend to earth. I intend to be at our local shrine for this if possible!
21 - 24:00 Jade Emperor & Nine Emperor Gods Propitiation

Note: (I had to look it up) Propitiation = the act of atoning for sin or wrongdoing (especially appeasing a deity)

29th - 30th September

Not much goes on for the first couple of days - Gods are worshipped morning and evening. Visit a shrine for a real other-world experience. Eat some of the variety of Vegetarian ("Jae") food on offer all over Phuket (especially near the shrines, but you can even find it in Patong).


1st October

KATHU SHRINE
05:00 / 18:00 Worship of Gods
16:00 Warriors Propitiation
16:30 Food Offering to Warriors
19:30 Birth-Death Gods Propitiation

JUI TUI SHRINE
19:30 Food Offering to Warriors
20:45 Birth-Death Gods Propitiation

BANG NEOW SHRINE
15:00 Food Offering to Warriors

SUI BOON TONG SHRINE
15:00 Food Offering to Warriors
20:00 Worship of Gods

SAMKONG SHRINE
15:09 Food Offering to Warriors
20:00 Propitiation of Seven Stars

BAN THA RUE SHRINE
17:30 Food Offering to Warriors
18:30 Birth-Death Gods Propitiation

CHERNG THALAY SHRINE
15:00 Food Offering to Warriors
15:30 Blessing Bang Tao Village
19:00 Worship of Gods

YOKKEKENG SHRINE
15:30 Food Offering to Warriors
20:00 Birth-Death Gods Propitiation at Koh Sirey Beach

SAPAM SHRINE
07:00 Street Procession in Phuket town
15:45 Food Offering to Warriors


2nd October

KATHU SHRINE
05:00 / 18:00 Worship of Gods

JUI TUI SHRINE
Worship of Gods and Spirit Propitiation of Past Participants of the Vegetarian Festival

BANG NEOW SHRINE
Spirit Propitiation of Past Participants of the Vegetarian Festival

SUI BOON TONG SHRINE
20:00 Worship of Gods

SAMKONG SHRINE
05:30 Worship of Gods
07:19 Street Procession in Phuket Town
12:00 Worship of Gods
18:00 Worship of Gods

BAN THA RUE SHRINE
12:00 / 19:30 Worship of Gods

CHERNG THALAY SHRINE
15:00 Food Offering to Warriors
15:30 Blessing Manik and Cherng Thalay Villages
19:00 Worship of Gods

YOKKEKENG SHRINE
07:30 Worship of Gods
20:00 Worship of Gods

SAPAM SHRINE
Worship of Gods



3rd October

KATHU SHRINE
05:00 / 18:00 Worship of Gods
19:00 Oil Bathing & Bladed - Ladder Climbing - You can count on me being here for this!

JUI TUI SHRINE
Worship of Gods

BANG NEOW SHRINE
15:00 Food Offering to Warriors
20:00 Propitiation of Seven Stars

SUI BOON TONG SHRINE
20:00 Worship of Gods
24:00 Propitiation of Gods

SAMKONG SHRINE
05:30 Worship of Gods
15:09 Food Offering to Warriors
18:00 Worship of Gods

BAN THA RUE SHRINE
07:30 Street Procession in Phuket Town

CHERNG THALAY SHRINE
15:00 Food Offering to Warriors
20:09 Propitiation of Seven Stars
23:00 Worship of Gods

YOKKEKENG SHRINE
07:30 Worship of Gods
20:00 Worship of Gods

SAPAM SHRINE
19:00 Street Procession in Sapam Village


4th October

KATHU SHRINE
05:00 Worship of Gods
16:00 Food Offering to Warriors
18:00 Worship of Gods

JUI TUI SHRINE
15:09 Food Offering to Warriors
20:09 Fire Walking at Saphan Hin - I gotta see some fire walking this year!

BANG NEOW SHRINE
07:00 Street Procession in Phuket Town
15:00 Food Offering to Warriors

SUI BOON TONG SHRINE
15:00 Food Offering to Warriors
19:00 Worship of Gods
21:00 Fire Walking

SAMKONG SHRINE
05:30 Worship of Gods
15:09 Food Offering to Warriors
18:00 Worship of Gods

BAN THA RUE SHRINE
17:00 Food Offering to Warriors
20:00 Fire Walking at Shrine

CHERNG THALAY SHRINE
05:30 Worship of Gods
07:30 Street Procession in Thalang District
15:00 Food Offering to Warriors
19:30 Worship of Gods
21:30 Random Selection to Find Servants to Priests in the Next Vegetarian Festival

YOKKEKENG SHRINE
07:30 Worship of Gods
15:30 Food Offering to Warriors
20:00 Fire Walking at Shrine

SAPAM SHRINE
15:30 Food Offering to Warriors
21:00 Fire Walking at Shrine



5th October

KATHU SHRINE
05:00 Worship of Gods
16:00 Food Offering to Warriors
18:00 Worship of Gods
19:00 Propitiation of Seven Stars

JUI TUI SHRINE
08:00 Street Procession in Phuket Town
21:09 Propitiation of Seven Stars

BANG NEOW SHRINE
15:00 Food Offering to Warriors
20:00 Bladed-Ladder Climbing

SAMKONG SHRINE
05:30 Worship of Gods
15:09 Food Offering to Warriors
18:00 Worship of Gods
20:00 Bladed - Ladder Climbing

SUI BOON TONG SHRINE
19:00 Worship of Gods
21:00 Propitiation of Seven Stars

BAN THA RUE SHRINE
20:00 Propitiation of Seven Stars
20:45 Oil Bathing, Tying Children's Wrist

CHERNG THALAY SHRINE
15:00 Food Offering to Warriors
19:59 Bladed-Ladder Climbing
23:00 Worship of Gods

YOKKEKENG SHRINE
20:00 Propitiation of Seven Stars

SAPAM SHRINE
20:00 Propitiation of Seven Stars
20:00 Nail Bridge Crossing; Oil Bathing


6th October

KATHU SHRINE
05:00 Worship of Gods
07:00 Street Procession in Phuket Town - See you there! This is my local shrine - they walk from Kathu Shrine to town (about 4km) before parading in the town.
12:00 Worship of Gods
16:00 Food Offering to Warriors
18:00 Worship of Gods

JUI TUI SHRINE
20:09 Bridge Crossing for Purification

BANG NEOW SHRINE
15:00 Food Offering to Warriors
20:00 Fire Walking at Shrine
22:00 Random Selection to Find Servants to Priests in the Next Vegetarian Festival

SUI BOON TONG SHRINE
20:00 Food Offering to Warriors
24:00 Propitiation of Gods

SAMKONG SHRINE
05:30 Worship of Gods
15:09 Food Offering to Warriors
18:00 Worship of Gods
20:00 Fire Walking at Shrine

BAN THA RUE SHRINE
18:30 Street Procession in Thalang District

CHERNG THALAY SHRINE
15:00 Food Offering to Warriors
20:09 Fire Walking at Shrine
21:30 Worship of Gods

YOKKEKENG SHRINE
07:00 Street Procession in Phuket Town

SAPAM SHRINE
Worship of Gods



7th October

KATHU SHRINE
05:00 Worship of Gods
09:30 Random Selection to Find Servants to Priests in the Next Vegetarian Festival
15:00 Fire Walking at Shrine - I gotta see this!
16:00 Food Offering to Warriors
18:00 Worship of Gods
19:30 Bridge Crossing for Purification
24:00 Siva & Nine Emperor Gods and Birth-Death Gods Farewell

JUI TUI SHRINE
15:09 Food Offering to Warriors
23:09 Siva Farewell
23:45 Nine Emperor Gods Farewell at Saphanhin

BANG NEOW SHRINE
15:00 Food Offering to Warriors
18:00 Bridge Crossing for Purification
22:00 Siva & Nine Emperor Gods Farewell

SUI BOON TONG SHRINE
07:00 Street Procession in Phuket Town
20:00 Worship of Gods
21:00 Bridge Crossing for Purification
24:00 Siva & Nine Emperor Gods Farewell

SAMKONG SHRINE
05:30 Worship of Gods
15:09 Food Offering to Warriors
19:00 Bridge Crossing for Purification
23:09 Siva Farewell
24:00 Nine Emperor Gods Farewell at Saphanhin

BAN THA RUE SHRINE
17:30 Food Offering to Warriors
20:00 Bridge Crossing for Purification and Siva & Nine Emperor Gods Farewell at Nai Yang Beach

CHERNG THALAY SHRINE
05:30 Worship of Gods
15:00 Food Offering to Warriors
18:30 Bridge Crossing for Purification
21:30 Siva Farewell
22:09 Nine Emperor Gods Farewell at Surin Beach

YOKKEKENG SHRINE
07:30 Worship of Gods
15:30 Food Offering to Warriors
20:00 Bridge Crossing for Purification
22:30 Siva Farewell
24:00 Nine Emperor Gods Farewell at Koh Sirey Beach

SAPAM SHRINE
19:45 Bridge Crossing for Purification
22:45 Siva & Nine Emperor Gods Farewell


8th October

ALL SHRINES
15 - 17:00 Lantern Pole Lowering & Warriors Farewell

After all this, a steak and a bottle of Chilean Cabernet. Hope the schedule is useful. For more vegetarian festival info see PhuketVegetarian.com. I hope to catch some of the other events this year - the fire walking, the bladed ladders, oil bathing, along with a couple of the incredible street processions.

The Museum Of History and Ethnography at Stadhuys, Malacca (Melaka)

2nd day of Malacca Trip

After our breakfast at the hotel, we visited the Museum at Stadhuys. The "Museum Of History and Ethnography".
Entrance fees are MYR5.00 for adult & MYR2.00 for children below 12 years old. Kids below 5 year old are free.
After the entrance, this the first thing you explore.....

The Drainage System of Stadhuys

The drainage system that could be seen around the Stadhuys Complex now was either built during the British era earlier. This huge Stadhuys Complex seemed as though it did not have a drainage system at all during the Dutch era. Only when it was studied to plan the restoration work that it was found many drains criss-crossing in the Stadhuys Complex. This is one of those underground drains that were accidentally found while removing the cement floor.
Obviously the Dutch arranged and built the drainage system before the construction of the Stadhuys. This was typical Dutch architecture. This drain is not functioning now due to to the construction of an additional structure that somehow has blocked the flow.
Laterite blocks were lined up and cemented with lime plaster to form the drain. Then the drain was covered with granite slabs and tightly held together by clay. This part if the drain was purposely exposed to show the drainage system that existed in this building. - Sources from Stadhuys Museum

The pictures of the museum for sharing......

Sukhothai and Sawankhalok Ceramics

The pottery and ceramics industry has existed for a long time in Thailand. Because it depended on royal patronage, the production of Thai wares was localized in nature, dependent in the rise and fall of the state powers, and was therefore known by the location where they were made.
In the middle of 13th century, a new kingdom was established in Sukhothai in Northern Tailand, and within 50 years, especially under King Rama Khamberg, the Empire of Sukhothai had become a cultural, trade and administrative center. This encouraged the growth of the ceramics industry to meet domestic needs as well as for export purpose. At first, the kilns in Sukhothai produced ceramics, which were low quality due to the rough clay found around the city. Sukhothai ceramics can be categorized into white wares and under glaze painted wares.
During the middle of the 14th century, a new ceramics center was open in Sawankhalok, not far away from the city of Sukhothai. The clay found in this area was finer quality that Sukhothai, enabling the production of better ceramics. The Sawankhalok ceramics industry grew, producing many varieties of ceramics, including artistic, decorative wares. The ceramics were not only white in colour but also brown and green, with an under glaze. - Sources from Stadhuys Museum

After this, we proceed to another building on the right........

The statue of Cheng Ho

Can you see the "Clock Tower"?

After the stair case below, we finish our visit for the Museum.

Related Melaka post :-
* Panaroma Malacca (Melaka) Tour Bus
* An Evening at Malacca (Melaka)
* Stadhuys, Malacca (Melaka)
* St. Paul's Church, Malacca
* Aldy Hotel, Malacca (Melaka)
* Jonker Walk Night Market, Malacca (Melaka)
* Ole Sayang Nyonya Food Restaurant, Malacca (Melaka)
* Malacca (Melaka) River Cruise
* Dim Sum Restaurant at Malacca
* Special Homemade Herbal Tea at Malacca
* Portuguese Village, Malacca (Melaka)
* Famous Malacca's Popiah
* Hotel Equatorial, Malacca
* Taiwan Beef Noodle Malacca
* Nyonya Suan Restaurant, Malacca
* Mahkota Parade, Malacca
* Malacca (Melaka)

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